You know how when you surf regularly, and the sea looks rough or not that great, you say – I’ll come back tomorrow, or some other day – because you’ve become spoiled and you’ve seen your little bit of ocean look way better. But when you haven’t surfed in years and you’re on holiday, you’ve got the itch to get in the water – no matter what the weather or conditions!! Well, that was me. I rented a board and wetsuit, and dived right in to Godrevy beach in pretty intense conditions haha.
The tide was really strong, and honestly, I could barely paddle out. The waves were just foam breakers – which on the one hand was OK because I hadn’t surfed for a while, no one else was in the water, and I would rather not have to paddle out very far to catch a few waves. I never feel safe just going out on my own, especially when it is the first time I have surfed the beach.
So it was ok that there were just foam breakers, but for me personally it was pretty hard to paddle because of the strong tide, and in general it was not very inviting (what with the stormy weather and seas).
However I was pretty psyched on my way in haha
But it was rough in the water. And raining.
Godrevy beach is beautiful, though you won’t see that from these photos. But it’s a beautiful beach with a long clear span of sand – not rocks or pebbles – sand, like a normal beach. And if the weather is nice and not stormy like it was here, it’s really cool to hang here.
I was worn out by the time I finished, I think I was just in the water for like 45 minutes. I just couldn’t deal with the tide.
On a positive note, my guy got me a beautiful hot chocolate, and I briefly got to enjoy that “worn out from a fun surf session” feeling. I love that feeling you get after a long hard day in the ocean – of course when I used to surf that would mean I was in the water for hours.